Required tool and materials: a dummy head, preservative film, white latex, toilet paper, oil color and oil or turpentine or Zippo lighter.
Get some white latex and dilute it with water in a proportion of 1:10. Of course, you can adjust the percentage by your own preference, but do not make it too thin -- thicker latex will facilitate your modeling.
Wrap the dummy head with preservative film firmly and completely, avoid making the head dirty. And you can take the mask down easily after sculpting.
Get some toilet paper and immerse them into white latex.
Twist the paper into strips and stick them on the head, covering the whole face evenly. You can personally decide the shape and lines. If the latex is too thin, spitballs will become heavy after absorbing too much water, which is less convenient for sticking. Make sure spitballs will not fall down; you can put the head with its face pointing upward.
Put it in a dry space for about one to two days (the time depends on the water amount in latex.) After drying completely, you can take the mask down. Be warned, lines on the mask are rather hard and sharp at this time. Two or three layers of white latex are required to be added on the surface, making the mask feel soft later. Honestly speaking, the mask becomes more vivid then.
I used oil for coloring because it has fine and smooth particles that are better for color mixture. As for thinner, I chose Zippo lighter oil. If you frequently use oil for coloring, you may want to apply turpentine or a specialized thinner.
Brush a thin layer of dye on the mask. The color should be a mix-up between dark red and tan. Just as the picture shows, it can be more red than anything. The concentration can be thin, enabling the dye to move freely like water. Nor do you need to brush the color too evenly as it will flow and stays at some sunk places, seeming naturally solid. For now, the first layer of blood-like color is finished.
Lay it aside for about one hour to let the ground color dry. Then you can continue following coloring. Oil color takes long time before completely drying. This enables us to retouch repeatedly. Modulate dyestuff in green and light yellow in the same way.
As the picture shows, you can brush green besides some “big sunk holes”. But green should not take a large proportion on the whole face.
Light yellow color should be brushed on those projecting lines. Oil coloring is easy to dissolve and permeate into the paper. This feature makes the face look more badly mutilated.
You can repeat above steps to best cater to your own need finally. Surely, above picture is not the ideal look. After rough making, I lay it aside once again for drying.
Modulate flesh color with khaki and white and brush it on most parts of the face. Thicker dye is required this time because it needs to cover parts of the base colors. If you make it too thin, it may blend with base colors. Do not brush it on those deeper sunk parts. Then, apply dark red and tan here, making them look like wounds. Make those color blends seem more natural; you can do some simple brushing with a pen on those junctions, helping the dye to mix better.
Finally, make sure the mask will perform well; I brushed a layer of white latex after the dye dries to protect the finished color. The pigment is oily. You can not make the coating completely as it usually condenses everywhere. But do not worry. It will be in good condition after drying.
I continued to decorate after the white latex dries because those “large sinkholes” felt too rigid. Just use some paper to dip in the white latex. Stick them onto the mask to add some lines.
Dark tan and black are mixed. Dilute them a little and daub them on those sunk places.
Accentuate those lines. Dip your pen into undiluted light yellow and then wipe out most dyestuff on it with unused paper. Use the pen that is almost dry to lightly brush those lines. The color will adhere on the surface, emphasizing those lines.
Finally, to make it look more vivid and solid, I used dark tan on some of sunk places to deepen those shadows. Now, the mask is finished.
Once again, I'd like to thank Sado of Cosplay Weapons for putting this together for us. Be sure to check out his site for even more tutorials!
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Brad helped found Japanator.com in 2006, and currently serves as an Associate Editor. He's covered all aspects of the industry, but has a particular preference for the business-end of things, and... full profile | More staff profiles
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