The captial of the little island country of Japan, Tokyo, is patiently waiting for your arrival. They have worked hard to weave the idea of traveling there into each and every cultural export that you and I enjoy. Animated brainwashing, I call it. They're hoping you'll join the other almost nine million annual visitors (2007) to their country to spend your hard earned dollars on little pieces of PVC and pervy books you can't quite read yet.
While Tokyo makes itself relatively easy to travel to and visit, there's a few details that are often glossed over, taking new tourists by surprise. We here at Japanator thought it might be helpful to make a list of the things you should probably know before visiting Japan's capital.
Dozo...
10. You look weird
Sorry, but you do. Your nose looks funny. Your hair is strange. Your handbag sucks. And what the hell are you wearing?
You may take comfort in knowing that there are several million other visitors also touring the country, but that's not going to stop you from sticking out like a sore thumb. In America, almost anyone can blend in. Stick an American in Japan, and even with the high number of visiting tourists they're still going to stick out. Chances are you'll be taller than everyone else. Or... bigger. You know what I mean by that. Sorry 'bout that. And young people in Japan have a pretty good sense of style. If you're caught in the wrong place, your sweatpants and hoodie could be kakkoikunai.
And blondes are like magnets to little Japanese eyes. I visited Ueno Zoo once with my lovely platinum blonde female companion. She found it difficult to get around, as school kids would stop and stare at her and her shiny head. School teachers and parents would have to come snap them out of it.
[Pro Tip] Get used to people looking at you. Wink if you're ballsy.
9. You should bring more money
If you're going to Japan, chances are that you'll be visiting Tokyo. Tokyo has consistently ranked among the most expensive cities in the world, this year coming in at #2, according to Forbes. Things are expensive in expensive cities. Lunch might cost a few dollars more than you want it to. That shiny new camera might cost several more dollars than you want it to. Hell, there's stuff in Japanese vending machines that cost more than what you'd pay in an American restaurant.
This isn't even taking the things you'll want to buy into consideration. Getting to Japan isn't cheap, so it's natural that you'd want to make the most of it while you're there. Those doujinshi, trading figures, old Super Famicom games, and gashapon add up quick, and you'll be kicking yourself if you didn't have enough to get that one thing. Yeah, that one thing from that one shop.
That being said, there's several ways to prevent wallet rape in Tokyo. If you play your cards right, you can get by with less money. You might be eating fast food and konbini snacks, and possibly staying in a shit hole, but it can be done. Tokyo is way more expensive for a resident than it is a visitor.
[Pro Tip] While we're on the topic of money, be sure to call your credit card company or bank and let them know you'll be in Japan. Google the horror stories of those who didn't, and were stuck in their hotel rooms for their entire trip.
8. Going to the bathroom can be an ordeal
We don't think much about natural bodily functions until we have to do them in a foreign place. For the most part, the ol' 1 and 2 is pretty straightforward in urban Japan. But there are some things that first timers should be aware of.
Your toilet may have more buttons than a space shuttle - Japan is home to some of the fanciest toilets ever, and they all have buttons on them. Start jamming on said buttons, and you may find yourself sitting on a warm geyser. Or hear music coming out of your rear end. Once you get the hang of them, they're pretty cool. A special Japanator High Five goes out to the guy who thought up the variable water level dial. Epic addition.
Your toilet may look like a hole in the floor - The polar opposite of this space-age toilet is the dreaded squat toilet, which looks like a hole in the floor. A squat pot, if you will. If you're new to this, you may find that your... well, that your aim isn't so good. There's a fair chance you may piss on your own pants if you've never done this before. And what's worse is that the facilities that have these kinds of toilets often do not have toilet paper. Keep that in mind before you leave your hotel room in the morning.
[Pro Tip] When you come out of many of the bigger stations, someone will inevitably thrust a packet of tissues in your face. They're a form of advertising in Japan. Don't ask questions or decline -- you need those. Just nab one and stick it in your back pocket. You'll be glad you did when you come upon a squat pot.
7. You are not welcome everywhere
Most doors will swing wide open for you, white guy/gal, with a store clerk screaming Irashaimase! at you. That means come in and buy our shit, but don't make us talk that much to you... roughly translated. But there are some that don't want your business, white guy/girl. No offense.
It's usually not a racial thing as much as it is a culture thing. In the sexual industry, some establishments prefer not to have relations with non-Japanese people. I was with a group that tried to enter a hostess club. We were blocked by a worker who gave us the universal crossed-arms-in-an-X signal. He said "Japanese only, please" in perfect English. Other more intimate places don't want our foreign STDs. Japanese germs only, please.
Some very traditional places, like older restaurants and and bars, may have signs that say "Japanese Only" on their doors. Don't take offense. Just move on to the next one.
Finally, there are some places -- mostly bars -- that are kind of anti-American. It's nothing against you: you can blame the drunk and rowdy military guys from the bases for the ban in these places.
6. Cash is your friend
[Pro Tip] Take out cash and keep it with you. There are still plenty of places that do not accept credit cards.
You look like a douche at the konbini with a credit card. Get that Pepsi N'ex and those Karl chips with Yen, and not your credit card. For major purchases, credit cards are fine. The bigger establishments and chains will gladly accept them.
Just "hitting the ATM" is not as easy as it would be back at home. The ATMs work fine for the Japanese, but your foreign card isn't as cool here. Also, forget all of that Traveler's Checks nonsense you hear on the TV. Unless you wander off somewhere shady, your money is safe in your pocket in Japan. The Traveller's Checks are more hassle than they're worth.
5. Wear your passport
As a visitor to Japan, you must have your passport on you at all times. It is a crime to not have your passport on you. If you're stopped by authorities for any reason, you'll have to show your passport to them. If you can't show it, you'll be taken in to the police station. You probably won't have any issue, but Japanese police are allowed to stop you at any time, for any reason, and ask to see it. That does not usually happen, though.
There is an upside to lugging your ugly mugshot around. In many of the touristy areas, you'll be able to shop duty free with your passport in certain stores. In many cases you'll be directed to make your purchase at a special counter, but it's worth the hassle to save that money. A side benefit is that the clerks at these special counters are sometimes multi-lingual.
4. Getting around can be overwhelming at first...
...but it gets easier. In Tokyo, public transportation is the preferred method of getting around for the locals. There's trains, subways, busses, bullet trains, cars, and tons of people. You'll have to move quickly to get in line with the masses to get around town. You haven't lived until you've been packed by hand into a crowded train. It's not all bad, it's just really busy.
Luckily, the transportation in the more populated places has plenty of English to read for train riders. Maps are crazy to look at at first, but you'll be counting stations in no time. Hell, if you're going to Akihabara, just follow the nerds.
Sometimes figuring out train fare can be confusing. [Pro Tip] Make it easy on yourself and look for a green Suica machine while in Tokyo. You pay 500 yen for an IC card that you can fill up with cash. Fill that sucker up at the machine (money can be added at any time) and simply tap it on top of the turnstile in stations. Money will be automatically pulled from your card. You don't have to bother with doing the math! You can actually shop at select locations with the card, too.
[Pro Tip] Knowing where you're going before you leave can be a big help. Ask your hotel if they have a map. You can save yourself time and money (and embarrassment) with a well planned trip.
[Pro Tip] On escalators in Tokyo, stand to the left. Don't be that douche on the right blocking traffic. Walking down streets and pathways follows the same formula.
3. Your manners need minding
I'm not saying that you have bad manners. It's just that the ultra-polite Japanese society makes the unprepared foreigner look like an ape.
Gotta sneeze? Make it quiet. Gotta blow your nose? Don't. It's considered disgusting there. Go to a bathroom and do it. Don't point. Also rude.
Get up and let that old lady have your seat on the train. Don't eat and walk around. Don't wipe your face with the warmed towel they give you at restaurants. Don't yell to get someone else's attention.
The shoes thing is real. When you go to a place that requires shoe removal, you'll know. You'll see shoes there, set aside in an orderly fashion. Some bathrooms will have special slippers available for you. You'll see them.
[Pro Tip] Here's some quick guidelines for shoe removal. You'll remove for: tatami matted places, most homes, older eateries and establishments, any place you see slippers available.
2. The flight there sucks
Unless you're in first class, your seat in an airplane is made of foam. It's a flotation device, you know. While it kicks ass for saving you from drowning, it does a shit job of comforting your ass bones. Somehow that seat manages to become as flat as a pancake in your typical 12 hour flight from America to Japan.
What's worse is that the damned thing doesn't recline back far enough to sleep in. And it's always cold as hell on the plane. And you're always sitting next to some old lady that has to piss every hour or so.
You get the point: the flight sucks. Your body will hurt. You'll lose a day going over, so prepare to have your stomach hate you. Most airlines feed you two or three meals on the fight to get you on the right track, but it takes a couple of days to get into the swing of things there.
Once you land, you'll probably find yourself at Narita airport. The bad news is that this is about an hour away from Tokyo. The good news is that Airport Limousine service (not an actual limousine) can get you to Tokyo quite easily. Sure, taking the train is cheaper, but you don't want to look lame with all of your luggage in tow. And walking to your hotel from the train station after a 12 hour flight? No, you're not going to want to do that.
[Pro Tip] Sleeping pills. That is all.
1. There are a lot of people there
There are over 127 million people in Japan. Big deal, you say? That's half of America's population, you say? Well, it is, but it's all crammed into a country about the size of California. Tokyo itself is very similar in population to New York City, with about 8.5 million residents there. The density figures do not accurately portray how crazy foot traffic in Tokyo can be. The city increases in population by about 3 million people every day as workers come into town. And going to certain wards on the weekend can be mind-blowing for first timers.
Shibuya Station pumps about 3 million people through the station on a weekday. Visit on Saturday night and you'll see a sea of black hair, with after-workers hanging out around Shibuya Crossing and the famous Hachiko dog statue. If you think that's crazy, you should see Shinjuku station. The underground pathways are like a city within a city.
It's not just the stations, though. Visit a theme park and get lost in the flow. Arcades are sometimes scary. Hit Akihabara on Sunday like the locals do and find yourself shoulder to shoulder with cosplayers and fans. Geek events like Comiket and Tokyo Game Show welcome a flood of visitors who seem balance chaos and order at the same time. I've even been to a convenience store that had a line out the door and around the corner. I visited a bakery where I had to push my way to the front of a crowd to order, but then couldn't leave!
I've been in bars where there was no chance that you were not breathing on someone else. It was loud in there, not because people were loud, but because of how many people were in there. Tokyoites are totally used to it. Chances are that you won't be at first.
This is just ten of many...
... travel tips for visitors to Tokyo. If there are any other frequent travellers to Tokyo, feel free to add your tips to the comments section below.
Yeah, I would totally stick out. I'm 6'6 and I possess the un-shone locks of a true warrior! Meaning my hair is really long, and very blonde. I also forsee a problem with the slippers thing...I have large feet. Other than the bathroom challenge, which I would face on my own...very alone, the rest seems notsobad.
When I visited in high school with a few of my friends, one of them who was giant even by American standards was stopped on the street for a picture by an old lady who was short even by Japanese standards. Pretty funny, but he was easy to pick out in a crowd. We were lucky enough to not go to any Japanese only places (probably because we had a tour guide), but I don't remember having our passports on us at all times. Maybe we did? I just don't remember it being an issue; it was August 2005, if that mattered.
I get most of the asian customs though and being as polite as you can will help you from standing out too much. I will wait til I get that American passport before even going to Japan, otherwise they might think I might be one of the many illegal asians in that country.
Pro Tip for #2: Diet pills not only help you shed those unwanted pounds from eating nothing but ramen noodle soup and Pocky, but can help you stay awake and alert if you need to be, and can be a nice pick-me-up after taking 3 sleeping pills on the trip over.
The whole 'Japanese Only' thing kind of bothers me on a fundamental level, but I 'spose it's just their way or something. I guess I'd just be worried that EVERYWHERE would be like that or something.
I couldn't understand why people didn't stare at me, considering my height. Did get nice smiles from schholgirls. :D When I first took a look at the train line map I was pretty overwhelmed, thank god they have the English version next to it and it is really easy to understand. I made the mistake of not getting up for the trip over... Huge mistake, couldn't feel anything below my waste. The flight back wasn't so bad because I got an aisle seat and I could stretch my legs easier, even though the food cart got annoying. The Japanese guy next to me was nice, he gave me gum because he kept getting up to go to the bathroom.
I have to say, I wonder how it is for non-white americans.
Every time i read up about some dude's travels in japan, its a white guy. As a early-20s hispanic male 5'6, i wonder how much stares i will get.
I wonder if it will be hard for japanese people to understand i'm American. I have a feeling they think americans are all white.
BTW, about the whole fashion shit, thats ridiculous. Young stylish people are all the same around the world. If you're a socially awkward geeky, you probably dress badly, which is why you get the stares. Have you met japanese geeks? They don't exactly dress stylish.
Tokyo is a bustling metropolis, of course you'll see stylish people, just go down to middle of no-where suburban/rural areas, you'll see japanese version of walmart people.
As a southern californian who lives in freeway locked suburbs, I bet it will be tough to get use to walking around and taking public transportation. I haven't used public transportation since I was in my first year in college when I didn't bring my car. That was short lived. Those train maps scare the shit out of me.
hmm, wonder how much I'd stick out...I'm viet, I mean, most if not all oriental asians can tell each other apart country wise, but still, probably less than an american, but makes me wonder....lol
nice tips, the manners one made me laugh, being asian, just seems so obvious xP
"Finally, there are some places -- mostly bars -- that are kind of anti-American. It's nothing against you: you can blame the drunk and rowdy military guys from the bases for the ban in these places."
The last time I went to Japan I was 8 years old, and I was only going with my father on a business trip for his consulting firm.... I was lucky in that I think we were in first class since he had so many flier miles. I'll be honest though, I don't remember as much from the trip as I wish I did....
My only word of advice, don't wear the typical American jeans-t-shirt combination....that'll only make you stick out more, and in terms of weather, if you've ever been to Seattle or Baltimore, the weather ranges about as much throughout the year in Tokyo as those places.
@Link: Let's just say most Japanese can't tell the difference between the Europeans that get drunk and say they're American and real Americans.......heck, the only way I can tell the difference between Canadians and Americans is that some say "eh" or whenever they make an ou sound, like saying "aboot" instead of "about".
@byrc: From my understanding you wouldn't stand out that as much, since there is a rather sizable Latino community in Japan, at least in Kantou. That, and (I don't know if this is true as much anymore) but the Japanese seem to differentiate primarily by hair color and height more than any other factors, so you should be fine. And yes, they realize there are many other people there that are Americans, but the stereotype seems to come from being shoved in the same category as the Europeans who cause as much if not more trouble over there and then say they're American...
One time in a fairly authentic modern Japanese restaurant here in the States, I was rather put off when my father used the hot towel on his face. I had to remind him not to do that on another visit.
pRO Tip: Don't go to Tokyo! Stay in Osaka!.........:)
Oh ya, & If you have a laptop TAKE IT! If you dont. borrow a friends! I had 8GB's of Memory for my small camera & ran out half way through the trip.
If you can't bring a laptop, bring some USB Memory with you. Don't buy blank DVD's at Lawsons like I did. Trying to burn your photos to a DISC is Hell on Japanese computers, PLUS, the Disc itself won't work back home.
& last, but most important, If you ever fill your memory card up, DELETE some photos off it. Or else you will end up like me with a blank 2G memory card that once held hundreds of great shots that you will never get back. The Card needs to breathe.
Have your wallet chained to you Jeans if not in your bag. The last place in the world you would think someone would steal your wallet would be at the Studio Ghibli Museum. I hope that thousand was well spent, the %^&$ing basted......
A "JR Pass" is a MUST! Don't even bother going to Japan if you think you don't need one.
Take as little luggage as Possable, You will come home with twice as much, Trust me! Even if you are a grand down...
Thats all I can think of right now.... ...Eat lots of Noodles!
Awesome post, as Stig said, really informative. Most of it I'd already know (/expect in any country) but lots of handy tips there.
When I go, I'll come back to this post :)
Nice tips, and the ones that are the most useful. I've been to Japan three times now, and it's all true. ESPECIALLY the part about the ATMs. Even if you do find one that will take your card...guess what? It's in Japanese. Trial and error saved my ass the first time, but you can't always count on luck.
thanks for the tips, maby I would not stand out as much I mean I'm only 4,9 at the momment -_-(blame my parents) I've absoulutly have no blond hairs what so ever >.
If you're not asian, you stand out. I'm 5'6" and that was still tall when I went there. It's not as much as being taller than other people, but you get more people your height and lower. You don't see as many people taller than you, like you do in the US. Just because you stand out, it doesn't mean much. Unless you go to a rural area, no one is going to point at you and be surprised. There aren't many places that don't allow foreigners. Yes, they do exist, but I didn't see any when I went. I didn't see any hispanic people when I went to Japan. I stayed mostly around Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. I didn't get any stares.
Another note is that unless you are completely fluent in Japanese or the person doesn't understand your English, don't bother speaking in Japanese. Most Japanese people automatically assume you're speaking English, so they take your Japanese, assume it's English, and then try to translate that into Japanese. It ends up making it harder than if you just spoke to them in English. Most Japanese people only know basic English, so it is best to study the basics in Japanese.
Me and some friends are going in 2010 to Japan, so this was such a fun read for me, I demand more, and more right now! ..............GO!.............. if your still reading this, you should be making part 2 right now.
[quote]Me and some friends are going in 2010 to Japan, so this was such a fun read for me, I demand more, and more right now! ..............GO!.............. if your still reading this, you should be making part 2 right now.[/quote]
Awesome - me and my friends are doing exacly the same - we should all hook up out there - what month are you planning?We're going round june-august time so we can catch the festivals n fireworks
I'm sure we seem as ridiculous to them as visiting foreigners seem to us lol and could you imagine how f'ed up us speaking Japanese must sound to them?
anyway [quote]7. You are not welcome everywhere[/quote]
lol racism, could you imagine if someone tried to have a "whites only" place in modern America?
also my mom would NOT be able to follow " Don't yell to get someone else's attention." I can imagine her yelling her head if I got out of her sight in a crowd
GEEZ i just got back from japan not to long ago and this made me laugh so hard. everything was dead on, great advice i really wish i read number 7, 5 and 3 before going.
Citibank ATMs do English, as do the Post Office ATMs. Also, JR & Tokyo Metro farecard machines do English now too, at least at the bigger stations.
One thing I had trouble with at the bigger train stations like Ikebukuro was, not all of the faregates take you to all of the trains. At Ikebukuro I went through the gates for the wrong train, and had to take a different route. (The train networks in Tokyo all take the same farecard now, so it's easy to make that mistake.) But all the signs have at least the station and line name in English, so just follow the signs.
Even if you stand out, if you're with a large enough group, you can ignore almost all restrictions except blatant crimes just by feigning ignorance...or speaking French, Italian, Spanish, or any other language besides Japanese or English...or acting like you do.
I'll quote a great man named Azrael, and say "Gaijin Smash"
I remember the group I was with did the bad gaijin thing of standing on the right side of the escalator, EVERYONE on the thing shifted over to the right! we broke the system. It was still like that when we got on it again a few hours later.
It would probably take me a week to get all this down, by then my vacation to the land of the rising sun would be over. I wouldn't know how polite to be. I have a cold right now, so I guess the right thing to do would be me wearing that doctor's mask-thingy. *sigh* I still wanna go there.
Good intel. I gotta point out though, a good reason that Tokyo's subway map looking like an epileptic kid's artwork is that it isn't nicely topographically divided by water like New York is. New York's subway is easy enough to navigate, although I admit I need to accessorize with Google Maps sometimes outside of Manhattan.
The squat toilet issue is similiar to what you'd find the bigger cities in China, except no one gives out free tissues there. Almost ran into a disaster at the Shanghai Walmart. Must remember to stock up on the paper ads they hand out when I go back (and not to bring a heavy messenger bag into a store with no hooks on its stalls, orz)
Oh man that squatting toilet looks EVILLLL.
Opening every toilet door you need in Japan and finding that would be like a random encounter in a JRPG :)
Nice pro-tips !
I will be going to Japan November 7th and staying there for 8 days, purposely one day longer than a week due to jetlag issues as from Europe to Japan is also a 12 hour flight *shudder*
In the Netherlands, it`s also mandatory to carry a valid ID but nobody ever does, I guess I wont be taking chances in Japan tough cause that`d suck if you have to go to the station simply for not having your passport around.
Is a JR pass really going to matter tough ?
Is my question.
I tought about buying one but it`s 150 Euro`s for a week and like I figure I would be going each day to an area and walking around alot and thus not spending alot of time going to and from places around the whole place by train and figured it might be cheaper paying the individual fares ?
Or am I dead wrong :) ?
And is the JR pass another card you swipe infront of a gate to get entry ?
If so that`d be a lifesaver.
That subway map looks freaking horrible, worse then Paris which also can be a nightmare if you take the wrong exit in the larger stations you`ve basicaly wasted 5 or 10 minutes of walking >_> and need to go around.
I am still hesitant about where my main base would be located (i.e hotel)
Shibuya (for going out at night and not having to worry about the last train when i wanna get back to the hotel) or .... Ueno in more Central Tokyo .
There's an amazing amount of inaccuracies in this article, and I hope any person seriously planning a trip to Tokyo doesn't take it seriously.
Between ridiculously incorrect statements like "Tokyo is way more expensive for a resident than it is a visitor." and the lack of actually USEFUL information (like how you can use your foreign ATM cards at ATMs in post offices and 7-11's, whoever wrote this should be ashamed of themselves.
Interesting facts, I didn't know about the Japanese only places or the standing on the escalator thing. I'll have to keep these in mind. Of course, I'm Chinese but I'll probably stick out anyway since I'm relatively taller than the average Japanese. And then there are those stories about other Asians getting arrested because the cops thought they were illegal aliens. D: